When the food is this good, we can worry a little bit less about things like weather or whether or not the table is so perfectly set (although we still try our best, every time). But, as rain poured all day the day before the Supper and flooded the lawn outside The Barn at Bedaw Farms, we started to wonder if we’d be able to set the table there at all.

Upstate New York is idyllic in the golden, sunny time between summer and fall. We arrived to the quiet town of Sharon Springs just as the leaves were starting to turn; the landscape was all green and amber and the rust color of brick and late-season flowers left out in the sun — interrupted by occasional bursts of bright Beekman yellow.